Antarctica Trip Notes
I recently returned from the December 9, 2022 trip to Antarctica.
In no particular order, here are some things I learned/wish to pass on in hopes that it may assist future guests planning or going on this trip. Photos from the trip can be viewed at the link below.
Buenos Aires
- Bring and use US Dollars if able. Use credit cards only if you don’t care about costs/exchange rates.
- Bring plenty of $1, $5, $10’s as many places while they will accept dollars may not want to give change for $20’s if it’s a small purchase.
- Check the published blue dollar exchange rate (google Argentina Blue Dollar)
- Ideally settle on a peso price before asking about the exchange rate (for vendors, not places with published peso prices of course)
- If it’s not displayed, be sure and ASK what the dollar exchange rate is before ordering/purchasing.
- Not every place give you a good exchange rate. Hotels and hotel bars (including Hilton) seem to only give the official rate, which is a rip off!
- Most of the restaurants and bars in the Puerto Madero area around the Hilton give decent rates of between 80-90% of the Blue Dollar rate, but don’t assume such.
- A few places (very few) won’t take dollars.
- The eco-park is a fairly nice place to spend a few hours if you like walking or are comfortable renting a bike.
- If you want to take photos in the echo park, bring a big/long lens as much of it is birds.
- Somewhere I notices a blub in Taulk’s literature that shorts are unacceptable downtown BA. This is flat wrong. Everyone but business folks were in shorts.
- You absolutely can leave a bag with the Hilton and pick it up on your return if doing a post-cruise stay in BA. Highly recommend doing so!
- The charter flight from BA to Ushuaia was a Aerolinas Argentinas 737-800/737-Max.
- There was sufficient space in overhead compartments for carry-on’s so don’t stress the loading order which is by pre-assigned group.
- A pretty decent lunch was served on the flight coming and going. Taulk also provided food prior flight from Ushuaia so you won’t starve.
- Carry-on bags were weighed at checkin returning from Ushuaia. Forewarned and have a contingency plan (see note about leaving bag with Hilton)
- All checked luggage was weighed coming and going. I did see gate agents addressing overweight bags with tour guests.
- The Mercado San Telmo was part of a organized Taulk city tour, but during the tour it’s a quick stop. It and the area around are well worth spending more time if you have it.
- Use the Taxi’s to get around. They take dollars and are super cheap. Driver’s do not always speak English so be prepared with written directions or Google Maps.
- Flight from BA to Ushuaia was early morning. We left the hotel on buses at 4:15AM. You can skip breakfast at 3:30AM for an extra hour sleep, simply eat at airport or on plane.
- People booking directly w/Ponant had the option of a Tierra Del Fuego tour upon arrival in Ushuaia. Taulk on the other hand did a tour on return to Ushuaia.
- We were given a PCR test for Covid at the Hilton a couple of days before flying to Ushuaia. A couple were positive and their trip was interrupted sadly.
Photography
- On the trip I took two Sony full frame bodies. Doing so was great to avoid lens swaps and to have a backup in case one broke.
- For lenses I had Sony 16-35mm F/4, 24-105 F/4, 100-400 F4.5-5.6. Most used was the 100-400. Least used the 16-35.
- Had it to do over, I’d leave the 16-35 home to save weight.
- I took a decent mic to mount on the camera, but used it rarely as I was mostly shooting photos vs. video. Again issue w/time available.
- I also took an Insta360 One X2. It was AWESOME right up until it hit the ocean floor. Complex 1/1M story for another time. Highly recommend a 360 action camera for video on the trip.
- Backup your photos from your camera’s often (I did after every excursion). See note about loosing camera above.
- For backup I used two external SSD drive, copying photos from camera to SSD and then from SSD->SDD after every excursion. I’m super happy to have done so!
- One of the days it was pouring rain. Use rain proof camera equipment or have appropriate covers. I used Op/Tech Rainsleeves and they were cheap and awesome.
- I took a monopod. Never used it other than as a hiking pole. Simply put, you’re only onshore for an hour at a time, usually moving and there just isn’t time to setup shots vs. hand-held.
- My setup was the long lens on a Peak Design sling and typically the 2nd body w/24-105 attached to my backpack w/capture clip. It worked well for me.
- On the Zodiac rides you absolutely get soaked…w/salt water. A waterproof (not resistant) backpack is a necessity if you want to keep something dry like cameras/lenses.
- The ship sells small waterproof backpacks of decent quality and price. It’s an option if you need to keep weight down for the flights.
- The outside pockets on the jacket they provide are not only not waterproof, they are actually water SCOOPS and completely fill with salt water on Zodiac rides. Fore warned.
- On the ship, carry a camera with you at all times if you want “the shot.” Many times at random wildlife appeared near the ship. Of course it was times when I only had my cell phone. I learned, but missed somce cool shots. A small body with something like the 24-105 is great for this.
- I brought heavier gloves w/finger holes for photograpy, but didn’t need them.
- Mostly I used merino liners which were nimble and warm enough. The only issue was that they got wet easily.
- Ideal would be thin waterproof gloves that are nimble enough to take photos, but provide some warmth. Again you’re only out an hour at a time.
- Keeping lenses clean is a big challenge. I brought 6 micro-fiber rags and used them all. More is better.
- If you’re taking video, clean lenses more often. Dealing with spots in photos is painless… on video it’s a major PITA!
- Camera lenses absolutely do fog up quickly once inside the ship. Bring some airtight bags that you can put camera and lens into prior to entering the ship after each excursion and let them warm slowly.
Jacket and Boots Provided
- The jacked provided is VERY warm. Honestly I ended up just wearing thermal base layer and the jacket most of the time. Temps were 32-34F w/winds 0-25MPH.
- Had it to do over, I would leave heavy sweaters etc. home and just double up the thermals if needed. The ship has a shop with hoodie’s etc. if for some reason you under pack.
- The ship itself was a comfortable temp 100% of the time. I wore flanel shirts and was comfortable.
- The hood on the jacket is nice. You only need a thermal head cover to go with it. I used a merino cap and it was perfect.
- Did I mention the jacket is very warm? It has a lining…not just a shell, which does not zip out (unfortunately).
- See mention above re: pockets on jacket filling with salt water. It’s the biggest flaw of the jacket making it less than useful in the future.
- Boots were great. Very comfortable (except those with very large calves).
- Boots had comfortable liners. I broungh my own but they wouldn’t fit. Don’t bother doing so.
- Boots were insulated. I used silk liners w/wool socks and my feet were toasty 100% of the time. They also grip well on all terrain encountered.
- Although boots grip well, hiking stick(s) are highly recommended…at least one. Those doing the hikes without them struggled. Forewarned. O
Clothes
- See note above re: bluky mid-layers. Would leave them at home. Maybe one down jacket that stuffs or a single hoodie.
- Took a mid-layer for bottom. Regretted it. Double up bottom thermals if cold on longer Zodiac rides. Otherwise staying cool is more of an issue on-shore.
- I took two pair of wool base layers. It was the right amount. You’re only on-shore/Zodiac an hour at a time and can wear them multiple times. Honestly one pair for the whole trip would do in a pinch.
- There were 2 normal formal nights and one “white” formal night. I had only nice jeans, nice shirts, and work casual loafers and was fine. Some dresse up, others didn’t.
- Staying an extra night in BA after cruise and leaving bag with Hilton with all your warm stuff is the ticket. BA is a really cool city to explore.
- Taulk provides the option of donating cloths to in need folks in Ushuaia after the cruise. It’s a great option to clear some space for purchases at the end of the trip!
- If you plan on doing the on-shore hikes, they can be strenuous and your biggest problem will be keeping cool. They are worth it for the views though.
Other Stuffage
- Wifi on ship was free, but most of the time not good enough to post photos. Honestly most of the time not enough to even txt between parties.
- If you need to keep in touch on the ship with others in your party, consider bringing a couple of two-way radios.
- There was exactly one US outlet in the cabin. If you are charing stuff, you should bring a multi-plug/power strip. It cannot be the kind with a breaker/fuse as that’s not allowed.
- Even if you’ve never been seasick, you might want to get some preventative meds. In 15′ waves after 1.5 days it got to me and I’ve never previously had issues including during aerobatic flying.